A Proud Lebanese

When I get asked how it is to live in a country on the precipice of collapse, I often answer that I wouldn’t know. I guess I have to reconsider as the places I once called home are making me increasingly claustrophobic. I don’t fit. I don’t even know if I belong. And with each passing day, I fit and belong even less.

People in Tripoli couldn’t sleep last night due to the fights taking place there. I thought I was being made fun of as names such as “Allouki” and “Abou l Jamejem” were mentioned in front of me, but those were real people with real power and they were keeping an entire city on edge. Why? Who knows. We share the country with Alloukis and we can’t do anything but sit and watch as they do what they please in defense of their twisted ideology.

What was happening in Tripoli yesterday had been taking place for more than a year now for those keeping track. Schools have been closed, their students stranded. Businesses are closing. People are narrowly escaping sniper fire. This morning, for whatever reason, fights in Beirut broke out too. Let’s not even forget about the fire coming in from the Syrian side, one that we don’t condemn, one that we deem friendly. Where exactly is the line that delineates a country at war actually drawn?

We call ourselves a country of diversity, of 18 different sects that blend together to form a mesh of beauty – or whatever formulation we are spoon-fed. Never mind that it’s religion that’s the basis of the mess we’re in to begin with, but what’s there to be proud of when it comes to having 18 different sects of which we have next to no idea about? We pretend it’s nice to have them. We are born in regions that are so uniform that us getting exposed to those who are different is entirely contingent upon us branching out. Many prefer not to. Diversity isn’t only a headline, it’s a practice. And it’s non-existent.

I’ve seen people who hate others just because they were belong to a certain sect, wishing them death. Those people, as far as I know, were not as numerous and vocal a few years ago. I never thought I’d have to worry that someone would hate me just because they don’t agree with practices I didn’t even choose. How despicable is it for people to wish you death just because you happened to be born in a random area to a random family who sporadically happened to pray either at a church or at a mosque, believes in resurrection and is either waiting for the Mahdi or not?

Governance isn’t better. We’re in a country that took 10 months to form a governmentwhich then almost collapsed because it couldn’t agree on semantics that have no bearing to begin with. People, resistance, army. Who cares?

How could we hope for any form of governance when we can’t even agree on what we want to govern? Walk around Achrafieh and you’ll find graffitis encouraging Christians to wake up and smell the Federalism coffee. Go to the South and you’ll see countless posters of dead people who sacrificed their life for this cause or that. Christians don’t view those causes as worthy. The Southerners view Federalism as an imperialistic attempt to dismantle the country, while the Sunnis scramble to find a leader that would keep them in check and as such, Tripoli has become Rifiville. Behold our identity crisis. Our demarcation lines are apparently political but inherently sectual. Don’t be fooled. So long for our state of apparent fictive unity.

Our MPs care less about legislating than about proving religious points in parliament. That building is where our MPs compete to show God (and their followers) who loves him (and wants popularity) more. Meanwhile, the rest of MPs who aren’t busy yawning their day away are playing Candy Crush, reading a book on their iPad, complaining about fasting, a religious choice that they willingly took, taking pictures inside parliament to share on their instagram account.

We also have presidential elections coming up soon, as people scurry to secure as much support as possible to their theoretical bid. I’ve received text messages to go and vote in online polls for whom I want as my next president. It’s not desperation, per se, that pushes parties to such acts. It’s them flexing their muscles, doing what they’ve been doing for a long time: getting stuck at the superficialities of Lebanese politics, never getting knee-deep in the swarm that desperately needs cleansing.

Our job prospects are not good either. I keep hearing from people how, in a couple of years, I’ll start ripping them off with consults, in typical Lebanese-doctor stereotypes. What those people don’t know, however, is that when I graduate with an MD degree next year, I’ll start with a $700 salary. And while my example is probably skewed and well below the average, I have to wonder: what is the actual average of Lebanese salaries? And how does it compare to the rising prices all across the country that many people can’t even afford anymore? What hope of a decent lifestyle can we aspire to without resorting to our parents whenever the need arises?

Even our liberties are being compromised. This blogpost might get me in jail because who knows who will end up reading into it and getting offended. A publication wonders where a sizable amount of public funds went and they get sued by the minister who’s responsible for the funds. A blogger criticizes a minister’s henchmen and he is summoned by our bureau of cybercrime for investigation. A teenager kisses a statue of the Virgin Mary four years ago and some news service digs out his Facebook profile, diffuses the picture and gets him in jail. A twitter user uses the most vile of languages to address the Lebanese president and the next thing you know, he’s facing a possible jail sentence. Ladies and gentlemen, our country’s entire security and well-being rests upon the transgressions of those people.

I watched “Waltz With Bashir” recently and found it to be utterly fascinating. I also found it depressing, not only because the history it portrayed was sad and that we, as a nation, will not recognize anything of that era anytime soon. It was sad because we, as Lebanese, will never be permitted to tackle such issues in the way that they do. It’s not only a manifestation of artistic license and whatnot. It’s a manifestation of opinion within the legal framework of our country – the line runs very thin around treason. Who would dare?

I’ve been wondering if living in lala land is what we all require at this point. But that’s not the type of life I can lead, nor is it the type of life I think we should lead. It’s not okay to be disassociated from everything taking place and pretend all’s okay when nothing is. It’s not okay to be blindly proud of the homeland just because it’s our homeland. This is the homeland that is, today, pulling you back just because you exist in it. Should I be proud? Should I be thankful? Should I be content? Should I be passive and take it?

I feel powerless and useless and that is not something I’m used to feel. I’m lost for words when friends reach out, exasperated at how things turn out. I’m lost for words when foreigners ask me what’s happening in the place I call home. I’m also not used to being lost for words. I don’t even defend my country the way I used to do when someone would dare confront me about it. What’s there to defend anymore?

I’m tired of the superiority we exhibit towards other countries and nationalities who probably have it better than we do. Where does this whole “I’m better than you” attitude even stem from? What do we even have to show for ourselves? Gebran Khalil Gebran does not count.

Today, I look at around all the familiarity that once comforted me and all I see is desolation that diverges from everything I believe in. I’m one of those people who are trying to remember why they were proud to be Lebanese once upon a time. My friends are leaving. Those who are here are preparing to leave. Those who are not preparing to leave are not people with whom I can establish rapport. We go about our daily lives like zombies whose only purpose is to exist. We live on the ruins of glory days that have long gone, days that have been buried and whose graves have been ransacked time and time again. I try to find reasons to belong and, apart from family, I can find none.

Lately, when someone tells me how proud they are of being Lebanese and how beautiful this country is, I just shrug as my mind goes: get real. This is not a reality to let anyone be proud.

ضاق الخناق

The following is a guest post by my very good friend and colleague, Ms. Hala Hassan. 

بليدا 19/02/2014

أن تستيقظ في سلام شمس شباط الدافئة فهذه نعمة. انّها لأيّام جميلة من شتاء جنوب لبنان الهادئة التي لا يعكّرها سوى بعض المناورات الاسرائيليّة في البعيد وهدير الطائرات المعادية تلوّث زرقة السّماء تغطية لجنود حلى لهم التمختر على الحدود لانتشال ما تبقى من طائرة استطلاع تحطّمت منذ يومين.

ليس بما ذكرت ما هو خارج على ما اعتاده جنوب لبنان. أحداث عرضيّة بين الحين والاخر، لكنّ الهدوء صلب ومفروض.
لا يصب التوتر في هذه البقعة من لبنان في مصلحة أحد في الوقت الحالي.
إن أرض المعركة ليست هنا، ومن الغباء أن يظن البعض اننا نعيش في زمن السلم. ليست هذه الأيام أيام سلم. اننا نعيش حرباً بغضاء لا يعرف فيها العدو من الصديق، لا أحد يدري أين ستضرب يد الغدر هذا الصباح أو ذاك، وعلى من سيكون الدور.

“سماع دوي إنفجار في….” إملأ الفراغ بالمنطقة المناسبة، فليسرع الجميع إلى الهواتف المحمولة، إلى الأخبار العاجلة ومواقع التواصل الإجتماعي، فليتصل كل باحبائه واصدقائه. “زمطنا”، أصحيحٌ اننا “زمطنا”؟

لا استطيع أن أحصي عدد التفجيرات في الأشهر الماضية، ولا أقدر على تسمية اللوائح الطويلة الشابة بأسماء الذين قضوا “شهداء”.
أنا لا أوافق على هذه التسمية؛ ليس شهيداً من يقضي غدراً، لا هو بحامل قضية ولا مدافعٍ في أرض الوغى.
على كلٍ، ليس الخلاف على التسميات والصفة، فقط ألمٌ على أحلامٍ تدفن هنا وبريق يخفت هناك.

لي في حارة حريك منزلٌ اشتراه أهلي منذ 3 سنوات. لا نسكنه ولكن نتردد للزيارة بين الحين والأخر، خاصةً انني اقطن في الأشرفية بهدف متابعة الدراسة في كلية الطب في جامعة البلمند والتدرب في مستشفى القديس جاورجيوس الجامعي.

لما كل هذه التفاصيل؟ في الواقع هذه تفاصيلٌ مهمة. لم أترك منطقة الاشرفيه متوجهةً إلى حارة حريك منذ أكثر من ثلاثة أشهر. كيف اذهب وأنا أعي خطر التفجيرات الذي يحوم في الأجواء.

حسناً، فلننسى أمر البيت في “الضاحية الجنوبية”، هذه العبارة التي تكتسب الدلائل والإيحأت يوماً بعد يوم. فلنعد إلى 19/02/2014.

دوي إنفجار في محيط السفارة الكويتية. السفارة الكويتية في بئر حسن.
لمن لا يعرف هذه المنطقة، أو للذي لا يسمع في هذه العبارات سوى “كويتيه” و-“حسن” (شبيهة بلاد الواق واق) فليعلم أن في محيط السفارة تتجمع الباصات والفانات التي يستقلها كل ساع إلى جنوب بيروت. من خلده حتى بليدا، من صيدا إلى الناقورة، من الجيه إلى النبطيه، وأذكر هذه المناطق أمثالاً لا على سبيل الحصر.
مئات من طلاب الجامعات والموظفين، من الكهول والنساء والأطفال، مسلمون ومسيحيون، مدنيون وعسكريون ( اسألوا أبناء عكار الذين يخدمون في ألوية الجيش الجنوبية، اسألوهم عن “فان السفارة”).

عودةٌ إلى الواقع. الذهاب من وإلى بيروت أصبح “خطراً” الأن. فلأقضي عطلتي السنوية في المنزل وامتنع عن سلوك طريق “بيروت- الجنوب”. هذا ما سيقوله الأهل وستقنعني به صور الأشلاء والخوف.

لقد ضاق الخناق .

في الحرب، في حرب لبنان الحالية، في هذه الحرب النفسية النجسة لن أدخل الضاحية، ولن استقل فان السفارة، على الأقل في هذه الأيام….

 ما هي هذه اللعنة؟
أهي لعنة أل”حسن” في إسمي؟ أهي في “المسلمة الشيعية” على إخراج قيدي؟

أنا أحب الحياة. أحبها لي و لغيري من مواطني هذا البلد، لكل من يستيقظ سعياً كل صباح لعلمه أو عمله، يركض وراء كفاف يومه، يلقي التحية على أخيه اللبناني، يدعو له بالعافية وبخير الصباح والمساء.

 فليعلم القاسي والداني أن في لبنان من تتخطى رؤيته للواقع حدود ألدين والطائفة، حدود المنطقة واللهجة، حدود الجنوب والشمال (تحية حزينة للشمال المعاني)، حدود سورية وإسرائيل، حدود التكفير والتجريم.

 سنبقى نحلم باليوم الذي تسقط فيه التهم عن الأسامي ويتوقف فيه الخوف من الإرهاب الإنتقائي الذي لا يغتال سوى البراءة والأفكار العزّل، وتصبح ” الحمدالله على السلامة” مجرد عبارة.

الأمن فالأمن وثم الأمن.

أمن اليوم، لا البارحة ولا المستقبل، لا أمن الاف السنين الماضية ولا أمن الحياة بعد الموت. أريد أمن 19/02/2014.

هالة حسن
بليدا في 19/02/2014

23.

I turned 24 today. And it was a horrible day.

I woke up feeling I couldn’t breathe, feeling like it was just another day to get through the motions. I went to the hospital. I took care of my patients. I did what I had to do but not more like I usually do. I smiled as people wished me happy birthday. I had yet to see the happy in the sentence. I didn’t know what else I could do. 

Perhaps there was nothing really wrong about today. But I didn’t see it that way all day. Call it overt-anxiety. Call it over-scripting of things and dramatization. But that’s how it was. My head told me today was a bad day and I didn’t try to tell my head it was wrong.

And then when I got home this evening, exhausted and feeling mentally drained, my little brother surprised me with a piece of cake on which he had lit a candle. And I hugged him as he sang me happy birthday. There was nothing else I could do. I thought that would be it until my parents called and my mom sang me happy birthday over speaker phone. And my grandparents called to wish me long life and the only thing I could do is wish them health. Their calls filled me with so much joy that the only thing I wanted to do was go spend my day with the people who made it as such. 

Then, as I headed to the dinner my friends begrudgingly dragged me to, I realized that many of the people that made 23 the year that it was were around that restaurant table, had called or texted me earlier that day. Those people had changed their pictures into a collage of their memories with yours truly. They were really, positively happy that this was my day and they wanted it to truly be a happy birthday.

This post may not mean much to most of you. But, as I turn a new page, my thoughts turn to family and friends – cliche as it may be – in order to tell them thank you for being there and I hope they’ll keep on being there.

Here’s to all the people that made me. Here’s to all the people that make each of my days worth living.

I turned 24 today. And it turned out to be a good day, indeed.

My Mom, The Woman Who Beat Cancer

There are a lot of things that one could wish in the days leading up to their birthday. Mine is tomorrow. People tell you the best thing you could ask for is health. I got the best early birthday gift today.

My mom, Jinane, is officially cancer free.

It was a long and winding road that I saw her take. And she has reached the finish line. It was one tough year.

I saw people talk around the disease like an entity whose name shouldn’t be mentioned. And I saw her hurting every time they did.
I saw people look at her with pity and I saw how it killed her every time they did.
I saw her lose her hair and still fight.
I saw her become bed-ridden after chemo.
I saw her become one of those people you see in movies with a scarf around their heads.
I saw her face next to a bucket for more days than I can count.
I saw her look at herself in the mirror and reminisce at the woman she was.
I saw her fight.
I saw her never lose hope.
I saw her keep that spark in her eyes.
I saw her pray. I saw her love. I saw her become more amazing, more beautiful.

Breast cancer awareness month is in October. But cancer is a year-long disease.

There are a lot of things that make me proud about having that woman be my mother. But if there’s one that beats them all, it’s the sheer courage with which she faced her predicament and the bravery with which she came out triumphant.

Mom, I love you. I wish I were home to hug you. Now I’ll just have to wait on some neighbor to read this and go down to tell you how lucky a woman you are to have a son who loves you. That’s not true. I’m lucky to have you.

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This is for Lucy who lost her cancer fight today. May you rest in peace you brave, brilliant woman.

Would You Wait for a Miracle?

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I have a two month old patient, whose bed is way too big for and who hasn’t cried in my presence once. She has blue eyes, which I could barely see through her constantly dilated pupils. Her skin is whiter than snow and colder than ice. She’s not responsive. She has more peripherals connected to her body than a body of that size should handle.

My two month old patient, precious and young as she is, is brain dead.

For a while, my friends and I lamented her young life. She is a person who will never live. She will never utter the words mom, she will never walk, she will never ride a bike. She will never even have solid food. Why was she being kept alive? Why  was she being put in such pain?

The medical aspect in us couldn’t understand the point of keeping life tethered to that girl. It didn’t make any sense. There’s no way she will wake up again. There’s no way she will recover. For all matters and purposes, that girl who has lived for two months exists no more.

But still, her parents kept her alive adorning her bed with rosaries and religious icons as they prayed by her bedside.

“I know it’s over,” I overheard her mom say while crying. “But I’m hoping He’d look down at her and see how such a precious creature she is and help her.”

And the mother would ask us: what will happen if things worked out with her? What will you see? Isn’t she snoring? What is that sound?

We’d answer in a way to stay true to the medicine without squashing her hopes. Hope, in this case, is a double-edged sword.

They were waiting for a miracle. My friends would even chuckle at the thought. But even though I also thought it was absurd, I just felt terribly, terribly sorry for what that mother had to go through, seeing her daughter’s shell in front of her: alive but not.

I’ve been thinking about miracles ever since I was allocated that little girl. While they round on other patients and they reach her case, I often find myself thinking about the miracle she is waiting for. I don’t get miracles. I don’t know if I believe in them. I think I don’t. But if there’s anything about miracles that I’m sure of, it’s that they are unjust.

Then I thought about what I’d do if I had been the father whose daughter was in my patient’s bed, with tubes going out of her in order to keep her alive. My answer would have surely been a resounding: turn it off. Purely medical. Pure electrolytes. Pure CT scans. Pure EEGs. Pure data. Or so I thought.

Today, as I saw that woman crying over her daughter, I didn’t pity her. I was utterly shocked that what she was doing didn’t feel odd. It didn’t feel weak. It didn’t feel like something I would remotely try to ridicule, like many people I’ve encountered would. Because the shocking revelation was that I’m not so sure I can turn it off, in spite of al the data.

Would you?